One of the questions we’re asked most often here at Suft Cosmetics is how to get rid of hyperpigmentation or dark marks.

It’s one of those skin issues that almost all of us struggle with in some way or at some point in our lives, and that’s because there are so many different causes of hyperpigmentation. Whether it’s caused by age, the sun, hormonal changes, or the leftover and unwanted result of a breakout, hyperpigmentation is the one skincare struggle we can all relate to.

Today we’re going to look at what exactly hyperpigmentation is, factors that cause it or make it worse, as well as the best practices and ingredients for treating those dreaded dark marks.

What is hyperpigmentation?

There are a few different skin issues that are all conflated under the ‘hyperpigmentation’ umbrella, so what do we actually mean when we talk about hyperpigmentation? Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (often referred to as ‘PIH’) is caused by the excess production of melanin, the pigment that gives skin its colour – when we tan, the resulting darker shade is a result of melanin in the skin. We often see this manifest in patches or specific dark spots on the face that can be difficult to get rid of.

Strictly speaking, Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation results after some kind of wound or inflammation in the skin, such as a break out, insect bite, or sunburn. Darker skin types (i.e., those with more melanin) are more prone to PIH, but it’s something we all experience at some point in our lives since we all experience injuries to the skin or inflammation. The red marks that result after a breakout or wound to the skin (and often later develop into PIH) are known as Post Inflammatory Erythema or PIE, and can also be improved by many of the ingredients we talk about later in this blog post. Dealing with PIE early on will ensure it doesn’t develop into PIH at a later stage.

Having said that, we also often see skin concerns such as age spots (also known as sun spots) and Melasma, referred to as hyperpigmentation. Age spots, which appear as we age and generally on more exposed areas of skin such as face, neck, chest, and hands, are a result of long term sun exposure. This can be worse for those of us living in the Southern Hemisphere, as we tend to be more exposed to the sun. Age spots are more common in those with lighter skin tones, though they affect everyone to a certain degree as they age. 

Melasma is seen more often in women, and caused by hormonal changes such as pregnancy, or being on the contraceptive pill. We often see melasma develop on the forehead, high on the cheeks, the bridge of the nose and the upper lip area. As it is caused by the internal chemistry of our bodies rather than outside factors, it can also be the most difficult type of pigmentation to deal with and medical intervention in the form of laser treatments or prescription topicals are sometimes necessary.

What to do to get rid of hyperpigmentation

Consistency

Now that we know what causes the dark marks we all dislike, what can we do to lessen or, in an ideal world, entirely do away with them? The first thing we should note when it comes to dealing with hyperpigmentation, is that consistency is key. This is sadly the case with all things we want in life: nothing worthwhile is achieved quickly or easily. As with embarking on a healthier diet and fitness routine or working towards a goal or dream, you’ll only see results if you are consistent with the actions you take. Some forms of pigmentation, such as age / sun spots, will come back fairly quickly once treatment stops or if you slack on prevention, so it’s important to be proactive and maintain your routine once you’ve found one that works for you.

Sun Protection to prevent hyperpigmentation

We know the famous saying that prevention is better than cure, and this is especially true when it comes to sun exposure and hyperpigmentation, as the sun encourages melanin production in all skin types and skin tones. As we know, excess melanin production is responsible for pigmentation spots on our skin. Limiting exposure to the sun, especially to your face, is critical in both preventing and helping to heal pigmentation. Some of the products that help minimise pigmentation can also make your skin more sensitive to the sun, and sun exposure to skin that is currently suffering from a wound such as acne or inflammation will turn the resulting red PIE into PIH very quickly. To be clear: there is very little point in tackling your hyperpigmentation with the products and ingredients below, if you don’t also use SPF every day, whether you’re directly in the sun or not.